"There was land to take and people to kill
While you were conquering America
You served yourself and did God's will
While you were conquering America"--Tracy Chapman

"There's diamonds in the sidewalk the gutters lined in song
Dear I hear that beer flows through the faucets all night long
There's treasure for the taking, for any hard working man
Who will make his home in the American Land"--Bruce Springsteen

As I drove through Nebraska today, those two songs came on in quick succession on my iPod--followed by Little Steven's "Trail of Broken Treaties" which is also right on. All these songs were appropriate for my drive, as I learned more about the Homestead Act of 1862, both the good and the bad (and everything in between). Sure, I put those songs onto a huge playlist for my trip, but I do wonder if my iPod knew I was thinking about the impact of westward expansion on the land and peoples of America.

I covered a lot of ground today. In fact, it is safe to say I committed a common mistake of misjudging distances when traveling out west (still in the midwest, but still). However, it all worked out great and I saw some beautiful scenery. I had no idea northeastern Kansas was so pretty.

The day started off most aggravating in Kansas City traffic. I found one trails site at Minor Park, some swales and a couple of historical markers. I finally got on Highway 10 to Lawrence after some nauseating traffic. I cruised by the KU campus but really wanted to get out of the city. Fortunately, the Oregon trail auto route is well-marked and it was easy to find my way on all of the roads today.

First stop was St. Mary's. The historic sites in town were closed so this was a short visit. In between St. Marys and Belvue I stopped at the Oregon Trail Nature Park, and am glad I did. I took some short hikes and found the terrain beautiful. It was very very windy but that just added to the fun.

I stuck to the auto route through Kansas and made two more stops: Scott Springs, a popular encampment that had a sculpture of a wagon and an ox, and Marysville, a cute town. Marysville calls itself black squirrel city, but alas I did not see any black squirrels. I have one living in my backyard in Ann Arbor so it's not a big deal. The people here were very friendly and I had a very cheap lunch in a small cafe on the town's main square. I also stopped at a few historical markers along the road. Some were very general, and some dealt specifically with a crossing or a grave. I did miss the turnoff for a cholera cemetary, but perhaps just as well.

From here I made a brief stop at a Pony Express historical marker, then pressed on into Nebraska. I'm really glad I visited Rock Creek Station State Historical Park. The park had some great ruts and swales, and a few buildings from the era they are restoring. The views here were beautiful. I don't think my pictures do this area justice. You could walk right on a small part of the trail. Cool. The rangers were very friendly. Since right now it's looking like I'm not going to be able to see the Guernsey Ruts in Wyoming due to a "winter" storm, I'm especially glad I stopped here.

I then decided to take a "short" detour to Homestead National Monument. It really wasn't that far, but the drive there was not as pretty as the rest of the day. I took a long hike around the upland prairie. They are trying to restore the prairie to its state before homesteaders invaded the land. The monument is built on the land of the first homesteader Daniel Freeman, who prospered. Personally, I have to wonder about someone who rushed to be the first person to get a permit, but whatever. Maybe I'm just being cynical, but interesting that the first homesteader was also one of the most prosperous and has his land be the site for a national monument? Many homesteaders struggled mightily compared to Freeman, which the museum does point out. Anyway, it was a good visit.

I'm in Kearney Nebraska tonight and exhausted. Looks like I will be able to make it to Scottsbluff tomorrow though the weather is going to be awful, just going to be difficult getting out and into Wyoming on Friday...we shall see. I had to eat at some chain Mexican restaurant next to the hotel called Carlos O'Kelleys, because I was too tired to do anymore driving safely. It was ok since I was so hungry, but I wish I had had more energy to find some steak or something...after passing so many cattle on the road. That will be the objective in Scottsbluff--have steak.

Pictures:

Kansas and Nebraska